Simple & Compact 1-to-3 PTFE Port Switch for H2C/D

Stop disconnecting PTFE tubes just to switch which port you’re feeding!

This compact 1-to-3 PTFE switch lets you route a single external filament source to the left, right, or TPU port on your Bambu printer—no tube swapping required. Add in one of the million 2-into-1 splitters out there, you can have a full-fledged system where you won't need to ever swap a PTFE tube again!

This has been a HUGE pain for me as a number of the engineering filaments I print require either the left input, or right… and of course, every once and awhile needing to print TPU as well! This solves the problem once and for all! 

Stop switching tubes!

What this does

• Takes 1 external filament input
• Lets you easily switch between 3 output paths:
  • Left port
  • Right port
  • Rear / TPU port
• Positive feeling with magnetic positioning.

No unplugging. No re-routing. No hassle. 

Why it’s useful

• Quickly adapt to different material requirements
• Keep your PTFE routing clean and fixed
• Reduce wear on connectors from repeated swapping
• Make external spool workflows actually convenient
• Couple this with 2-in-1 splitters, you can have your AMSes and external spool connectors permanently fixed! No fussing around!

Important Note (for AMS users)

This model is focused on output selection (which port you feed) — not input merging.

If you want to combine AMS + external inputs, you’ll still want to use 2-to-1 joiners upstream. 
This switch then gives you clean control over where that filament goes.

Real-World Use Cases

• Switching between CF or GF filaments (left/right) and TPU (rear) without touching tubes
• Running specialty filaments that only behave well on a specific port
• Keeping a permanent external spool setup without constant reconfiguration

Parts needed

1. (1) M3x15 hex head screw
2. (1) M3x4 heat insert
3. (6) 8mm x 3mm magnets
4. (4) PC4-M10 PTFE fitting connectors

Assembly Instructions

Recommended assembly tools: Needle nose pliers, a clamp, heat insert tool

1. Print all of the components. You will have the following:
   1. Input Selector (1 port)
   2. Spacer Shim
   3. Output Selector (3 ports)
2. Insert the M3 heat insert into the Output Selector. Carefully trim any excess plastic that pushes upwards with a utility knife.
3. Insert the 3 magnets one at a time on the Output Selector. Ensure that their polarization is all in the same orientation!!!! A clamp works wonders here to squeeze the magnets into the body. Do not use any glue!
4. Stack one extra magnet on top of the ones just inserted on the Output Selector.
5. Place the Input Selector on top of the Output Selector and align the magnet holes. Squeeze the two parts together enough to get the magnets to partially embed into the Input Selector.

6. Separate the Input and Output Selector and then finish pressing the magnets into the Input Selector. Be careful of the tiny raised nubs. You should have something that looks like this: 

   

7. Place the Spacer Shim on the Input Selector. There is an indicating mark that goes in between the two raised nubs.

   

8. Insert the M3 screw through the Input Selector and thread it through the Spacer Shim.  

   

9. Bring the Input and Output Selectors together and thread the screw into the Output Selector. Do not overtighten! You want it to have enough resistance that doesn't allow the part to flop around, but still slide easily.

10. Insert the PC10 fittings on both the Input and Output Selectors. 

    

11. Carefully look through the fittings to make sure that there are no obstructions and the print was successful. You might need to chase the holes with a 3/32" drill bit to make sure the opening are free of filament. Rotate the assembly through all 3 positions to make sure it's free and clear. 
12. Optional step: Go print some great PTFE tube labels from schiko to allow you to keep things straight!
13. Insert the PTFE tubes as needed. Make sure they are cleanly and properly cut so that they settle in the designed sockets. 
14. Go print some awesome stuff!