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Honeycomb slim desiccant boxes.

Print Profile(3)

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X1 Carbon
P1S
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X1
X1E
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H2D Pro
H2S
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A2L

0.16mm layer, 3 walls, 32% infill
0.16mm layer, 3 walls, 32% infill
Designer
2.1 h
2 plates
4.8(21)

0.16 PLA, 32% Honey, 3 walls No top, bott, Brim
0.16 PLA, 32% Honey, 3 walls No top, bott, Brim
Designer
2 h
2 plates
5.0(11)

Complete Set, One Plate, 0.16mm layer, 3 walls, 32% infill
Complete Set, One Plate, 0.16mm layer, 3 walls, 32% infill
6.8 h
1 plate
4.8(5)

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
45
144
110
24
293
209
Released 

Description

Something old but newly designed. Another Desiccant box.

First, the desiccant box is a necessary pain. Dry filament is the #1 issue with 3d printing. You can't have too dry filaments. Especially if you get into fancy materials like PA, PEEK, and even the popular PETg. 5% would be the best, but under 30% should work in most cases.

 

Now, why did I design a small dry box? Here in my garage, I need to recycle the desiccant every week or more. Since I have 3 (Soon 4) AMS. Removing the spool and pulling the smooth back is a pain.

Yes, a giant box can last twice as long, but changing for a fresh one in a few minutes is worth going to the drawing board and getting something better as easy to replace.

I printed a few different box models, and they were all like torture tests for the printer. And in the end, they look OK at best.

 

Here is the dry box I came with. This is exceptional because I use the Honeycomb infill at 32%, no top or bottom. It can hold beads as small as 1.25mm.

It's not a torture test for your printer. There are some plus and a drawback. The plus is that it is fast, uses less material and is easy for the machine. The drawback is that you must combine two parts and a sliding cover (3 pieces total).

 

The assembly is as simple as sliding a drawer in place. The front part slides over the back part (See the picture). Line up one male into the slot (Why are you smiling) a couple of millimeters on one side, then do the same on the other side. When both sides are engaged, slide the front up until it stops. You'll figure it out.

 

I did two plates, one for the side pieces (22mm wide) and one for the 3 middle parts (45mm wide). I put one set on each plate. It's up to you to Clone them. I'm not particularly eager to tie my machine for hours. I print it one by one, then squeeze other stuff in between. They are placed face down, and you can't change that. Or try it for the fun of it…

 

PS: I must add, stay posted. I'm coming with a Honeycomb girl with a hydrometer that makes it nice and tight.

Also, feel free to change all the parameters and try to make it faster, but 5 ~10 minutes less may have a so-so result.

I'm done. Print something. It is certainly more fun than trying to understand my Frenglish.

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License

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You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.